The dominant type of construction in our area of Central Florida is wood stud frame and we are not in a wind-blown debris zone, so a metal clip like the one shown above is the connector most often used. But the type of roof-to-wall fastener used depends on three factors:

1. Age of the house - Homes that are 60 years old or more are usually just “toe nailed”—secured only with a nail driven diagonally from the side of the rafter into the top plate. Strap-type connectors came along later, although the early versions would not meet today’s standard for uplift resistance and nailing pattern. 
2. Wind zone - The high-velocity wind zone requires metal connectors with additional uplift resistance, so South Florida homes are more likely to have double-wraps or something comparable. 
3. Type of construction - The roof-to-wall connector is usually embedded in the tie beam when it is poured for concrete block construction, whereas wood frame construction utilizes a connector that is nailed to the side of the top plate, so they require different connector designs.

    The Wind Mitigation Form, which provides insurance discounts for a hurricane-resistant features of a home, has several categories of roof-to-wall attachment. To read about it, go to our blog post What is the difference between a toe nail, clip, single wrap, and double wrap for the wind mitigation form? 

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  To learn more about roofs and attics, see these other blog posts:

• Why is my roof sheathing sagging between the trusses?

• Why is granule loss a problem for an asphalt shingle roof? 

• What are the mistakes to avoid when doing attic improvements?

• What causes roof shingles to curl up at corners?  

• What causes shingles to buckle along a line on the roof?

• What causes leaks at a fake roof dormer? 

• What causes a sagging roof ridge line?

• What causes bubble-like blisters in a built-up and gravel roof?  

• Why does it cost so much more to replace a steep roof than a low slope roof? 

• What is "ponding" on a flat roof?

• Is an attic required to have a light by the building code? 

• How can I inspect my roof for hurricane damage?

• Why is premature curl of roof shingles a problem?

• How can I tell if a roof has more than one layer of shingles? 

• What are the common problems with attic insulation? 

• Are roof trusses better than roof rafters (stick framing)? 

• Why is a popped nail in a shingle roof a problem? How do I fix it?

• What are the most common problems with wood roof trusses?

• What causes a lump or dip in the roof? 

• If my roof is not leaking, why does it need to be replaced?

• How can I be sure my roofing contractor got a permit?

• How many layers of roofing are allowed on a home? 

• What are the dark lines running parallel to shingles on my roof?

• Can metal roofing be used on a low slope/pitch roof? 

• How can I make my roof last longer?  

• What are the warning signs of a dangerous attic pull-down ladder?

• How can I find out the age of a roof? 

• Should I buy a house that needs a new roof?

• Should I buy a house with an old roof? 

• How much of a roof truss can I cut out to make a storage platform in the attic? 

• What's the difference between an "architectural" and a regular shingle roof? 

• What does a home inspector look for when examining a roof? 

• Do stains on the ceiling mean the roof is leaking?

• How can I tell if the house needs a new roof?  

• Why does my homeowner's insurance want a roof inspection?

• What are the hazards to avoid when going into an attic? 

     Visit our ROOF AND ATTIC page for other related blog posts on this subject, or go to the INDEX for a complete listing of all our articles.